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The prevailing trend
in platinum jewellery this year is that of nature.
Around the world jewellery designers have been
inspired by different elements of the natural
world: ranging from the eternal flow of water
to the geometric structure of plants. In some
markets this trend is also spreading into bridal
design. Elsewhere there is a return to simple
classic designs for engagement rings and wedding
bands.
Why is nature such a
popular theme in platinum jewellery? It is partly
because of the strong association between platinum
and its natural environment. Platinum is naturally
white and of great purity: it is usually 95% pure,
so it is only alloyed with small quantities of
other metals, often from the platinum group, and
remains near to its natural state.
What is it about platinum
jewellery that makes it so sought after? This
exquisite metal is found in very few places on
earth, and consequently is both rare and precious
as well as being exceptionally durable - lasting
for generations. These qualities help ensure that
platinum jewellery is the perfect metal for bridal
jewellery.
CHINA
The Future is Precious
Platinum
Thoughts
are turning to the future, to a place where things
are perfect, where beauty, harmony and innovation
are embraced and where we can escape the present.
These dreams create a future that is precious,
and that future can be created to today in eternal
platinum.
The inspiration for Chinese
designers and manufacturers to make this mental
leap into the future is the quest for perfection.
Spectacular jewellery that fulfils this desire
is being created using new technology: full of
contradictions, jewellery is, architectural yet
emotional, strong yet silken to the touch.
The best exponents of
this trend are necklaces, pendants and collars
where platinum is close to the wearer’s face,
and nestles gracefully on her neck. Motifs for
individual pieces draw their inspiration from
perfect nature, the stars and the universe.
Dreams can come true
and, in the same way that people today are looking
to the future for perfection, PGI China forecasts
a trend for extra long platinum chains. These
chains allow the wearer to express their style
and individuality – a precious platinum signature
for all women, for all occasions and all seasons.
As couples look to the
future, platinum continues to grow in popularity
as it is steeped in symbolism and represents a
perfect and precious time ahead. Clean and simple
designs emphasise the purity of love, while diamonds
in the heart of the ring radiate passion. Pair
rings, that show togetherness, are gaining popularity
amongst couples: considerable design and innovation
has gone into creating pair rings of exceptional
and enduring comfort.
Platinum jewellery is
the future: not just the precious perfection of
dreams.
INDIA
With Help From Mother
Nature
There
has been a shift in peoples’ buying patterns with
jewellery no longer seen only as an investment
but now as a fashion statement too. The wedding
season will continue to dominate the Indian jewellery
market with no ceremony complete without the exchange
of precious gifts in platinum and diamonds.
This year designs will
go beyond the conventional to create curiosity,
drama and an element of surprise. Creative boundaries
are being pushed to create a look that fits in
with Indian culture, attitudes and lifestyle.
Bold designs featuring
organic forms inspired by nature are set to be
popular. Cut-outs help to make interesting platinum
jewellery, by creating a greater surface area,
but keeping the pieces light enough to wear. Peacocks,
shells and butterflies with a new twist are motifs
to look out for.
The trend to buy Kundan
and Jadav, alongside conventional designs, looks
set to continue. The prong setting also continues
to be popular as well as the illusion setting,
clusters of diamonds and micro pavé.
With the help of Mother
Nature, the latest jewellery designs will make
a style statement. This could be abstract, with
bold shapes and structures inspired by nature.
GERMANY
Lasting Values
The
world seems to be spinning faster and faster and
the way we live today demands the ability to constantly
change. To succeed in our society, there is a
need to be flexible and adaptable, with a wide
range of interests. For example, a woman needs
to be a caring mother in the morning, a reliable
colleague during the day, and in the evening a
glamorous conversationalist with her friends and
family. Someone may wake in Hamburg on Monday,
be at a meeting in New York on Wednesday, knowing
that they soon need to be at that meeting in Tokyo.
Serenity and lasting values are rare these days.
This is why it is so
important to have something to rely on. People
draw strength from relationships and family, and
from their own unique personal style: and from
the values, such as endurance and substance, t
h a t p l a t i n um j ewe l l e r y represents.
This mysterious, brilliant white metal is not
only extremely rare, it also has many other qualities
that make it very special.
Several of platinum’s
outstanding characteristics can be attributed
to its 95% platinum alloy. This purity sets platinum
apart as one of the most rare alloys in the world
of jewellery. Its resistance and high d e n s
i t y ma ke t h i s u n d e r s t a t e d me t
a l extremely long lasting.
Whatever is presented
in today’s challenging times, platinum gives its
wearer reassurance with its enduring presence.
The pieces created by
platinum jewellery designers are as diverse and
exquisite as the women who wear them. Whether
opulently ornamented or sleekly designed, it is
the craftsmanship and way in which each piece
is able to express femininity that sets this jewellery
apart.
Inspired by nature, jewellery
designed by Georg Spreng, Meister and August Gerstner
has been influenced by natural forms that have
matured over thousands of years. These pieces
of jewellery are imbued with elegance and longevity.
Thanks to its expressive
designs, platinum jewellery takes on the personality
of its wearer, becoming part of her over time.
ITALY / France
Nature Speaks Out
The
Ancient Greeks identified Earth, Air, Fire and
Water as the four primary elements that are the
essence o f n a t u r e . A f i f t h element,
platinum, has e s tabl i shed i t s e l f besides
these. Like the other four, platinum is very bold.
Nature has given platinum properties that set
it apart from all other precious metals.
Air is the element that
welcomes platinum as it emerges from the ground.
The ore comes from the bowels of the earth, and
it takes ten tons to deliver a single ounce of
platinum. Fire lights up platinum in the furnaces,
with an incredibly high melting point of 1,768
°C and takes up to eight weeks to obtain an ingot
from the ore. Water flowing deep down within the
earth frequently accompanies platinum: a silent,
shining and sophisticated friend.
Platinum, the fifth element,
comes from nature and strives to return to it:
when nature speaks out, platinum responds. This
year, around the world nature is demanding greater
attention and respect, and the world of precious
platinum is responding with passion.
The latest collections
from Italy see platinum affirming its bond with
nature. Platinum symbolises the eternal glittering
flow of water and, in a variety of fluid, luminous
and almost exclusive forms, conveys the gossamer-like
breath of air. Nature’s animal, vegetable and
mineral kingdoms are also explored, with creations
ranging from the extremely realistic to the metaphorical,
and from the geometric and essential to the ever
more baroque and figurative.
Platinum jewellery takes
on the shape of drops, stars, planets, animals
and floral designs with an explosion of shapes,
lights and lines that are powerful and evocative.
Just as in Nature “nothing
is created, nothing is destroyed” the design process
follows the same rule. As Henri Poincaré said,
“Creativity is the ability to invent new combinations
of elements by selecting them from those which
already exist”. So, when platinum jewellery is
created it integrates existing elements from nature,
and reveals something new.
A Symbol of Love
The platinum wedding ring is the ultimate symbol
of love; the pure, rare and eternal qualities
that are found in this most precious metal perfectly
symbolise a lifetime’s love and ensure that the
allure endures.
JAPAN
Back to Nature
Japan
has seen a return to natural motifs such as flowers,
snowflakes and moons in a move away from the bolder
jewellery designs seen in recent years. Jewellery
created from platinum and, in many cases, diamonds,
expresses a range of sensibilities from femininity
to coolness. Amongst these designs, hearts are
a prominent feature.
Chains
that make the most of the jeweller’s skills, with
many using considerable amounts of platinum, are
popular, due in part to the lower price of the
metal.
A continuing trend from last year is Platinum
Station Jewellery (necklaces designed to represent
the best moments of life, featured platinum motifs
or coloured stones, set along a platinum chain).
A variation on this theme is rings that represent
personal moments of happiness.
Famous jewellers around
the world, who have always loved platinum, have
unleashed their creativity to enrich and diversify
the 2009 bridal collections.
The simplest wedding
rings become circles of clear, white light that
gleam against the skin. It is their sophisticated
designs, with fluid forms, often enhanced by small,
rarefied diamonds, original cruciform shapes and
new surfaces satin-finished, hammered, faceted
or illuminated by the splendour of a diamond.
Diamonds may also cover the complete circle of
light, pavé-set, or they may be individually set
in the platinum, or presented as a solitaire setting
with a very large central stone.
There is no doubt that
today the choice of styles and designs is wider
and more magnificent than ever for those who decide
to seal the fateful “yes” with the incomparable
elegance of white platinum.
Along with diamonds,
pink, yellow, black and brown coloured stones
set in platinum are very much in vogue. Pink and
white sapphires, emeralds and rubies are increasingly
featured in rings and necklaces.
Classic Style for Brides
The preference for platinum in the Japanese wedding
market remains strong. In 2008, platinum accounted
for over 90% of the engagement ring market and
80% of the wedding band market, according to a
survey by Zexy (Metropolitan Edition).
Engagement rings with
a single dazzling stone in a prong setting remain
the most popular, although interest in the bezel
setting is growing. In the wedding ring market,
simple designs are also gaining popularity although
increasingly people are choosing wedding rings
with stones. Another new design trend involves
traditional Japanese themes, including bamboo,
dragons and cherry blossoms striking a chord with
those getting married.
United Kingdom
The essence of nature
– past and present
With
its strong associations with the natural world,
pure, inherently white platinum is the perfect
metal to capture nature’s essence. Black pearls
or diamonds combine with platinum to create modern
but simple jewellery. Natural motifs such as tiny
seashells, stones, hearts and flowers created
in platinum anddiamonds create a carefree and
fresh look, fulfilling the dream of most little
girls to be the ultimate princess bride.
Vintage trends that hark
back to the heyday of the glamorous cocktail and
rat pack set of the late 1950s early 1960s permeate
many recent platinum jewellery designs. Whether
it is the oversized diamonds that are the feature
of many earrings and rings or the enduring popularity
of coloured stones, all make a sophisticated statement.
From pink and yellow diamonds to sapphires, emeralds
and rubies, coloured gemstones are no longer the
preserve of cocktail rings. Today these stones
are featured in platinum jewellery from engagement
rings to bejewelled cuffs: they quench the desire
amongst many to be different. Pink stones, particularly,
have a wonderful feminine feel and are hugely
popular.
This yearning for days
gone by is also reflected in the workmanship that
characterises current jewellery designs. Heirloom
jewellery, seen by stylists as a nod to recycling,
is very popular and many of today’s designs are
based on jewellery that would have been worn by
previous generations. Delicate filigree, a technique
that makes the most of platinum’s ductile properties,
is enjoying a renaissance. This, coupled with
the use of enamel as well as the simplest natural
materials, further reminds us of less complicated
times.
USA
Sculptural Beauty
The
art and architecture of exotic cultures find themselves
the muses for many of today’s popular designs.
Larger bold silhouettes create the framework for
this fusion of graceful curves and geometric angles,
while platinum’s unique qualities accentuate the
grace and grandeur of the design while creating
an enduring canvas for a mixture of shiny and
matte, textured and smooth surfaces.
Wide openwork platinum
bracelets and chunky cuffs continue to be popular
on the fashion front and are being worn on the
red carpet by almost every celebrity of note.
The natural whiteness of platinum makes it a perfect
frame for both diamonds and the unique and interesting
combinations of diamonds with coloured gemstones
and non-precious elements being put together by
today’s designers. Multi-layered platinum pendants
are still in demand, along with long platinum
chains set at intervals with platinum or gem stations.
Lar ge architectural style collar-necklaces are
another trend being shown by designers and gaining
popularity on the fashion front. On the ears and
hands, bigger is better with exaggerated proportion
and a mix of precious and semi-precious, finished
and rough-hewn gems and finishes.
For brides and grooms
the mood is classic and romantic. Some br ides
are choos ing classical styled jewellery with
elegant and simple lines. Stylish but simple e
l e m e n t s c r e a t e i n t e r e s t wi t
h t h e des igners mi x ing a variety of setting
styles and finishes in one piece. Brides who prefer
a more romantic look are opting for platinum settings
with the shimmer of diamond micro-pave. Grooms
are opting for solid platinum bands with unique
finishes.
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