News Bureau

June 14, 2018

Royal Jewels under hammer

Bourbon Family’s jewel to auction on November 12

One of the most important royal jewellery collections ever to come to auction is set to capture the world’s imagination when it comes for sale at Sotheby’s in Geneva on 12 November 2018. Entitled “Royal Jewels from the Bourbon-Parma Family”, the auction will span centuries of European history, from the reign of Louis XVI to the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and will offer fascinating insights into the splendour of one of Europe’s most important royal dynasties.

Descended from Louis XIV of France, the Holy Roman Emperors and from Pope Paul III, the Bourbon-Parma family is linked by blood to the most important ruling families of Europe - from the Bourbons to the Habsburgs. Members of the lineage include Kings of France and Spain, Emperors of Austria and the Dukes of Parma.

This exceptional ancestry is evidenced in the extraordinary opulence and provenance of the pieces in the collection, led by a breath-taking group of jewels which once belonged to Marie Antoinette, ill-fated queen of France, which have not been seen in public for 200 years.                                                                              

Daniela Mascetti, Deputy Chairman, Sotheby’s Jewellery Europe and Senior International Specialist: “It is one of the most important royal jewellery collections ever to appear on the market and each and every jewel is absolutely imbued with history.

Never before seen in public, this extraordinary group of jewels offers a captivating insight into the lives of its owners going back hundreds of years. What is also striking is the inherent beauty of the pieces themselves: the precious gems they are adorned with and the exceptional craftsmanship they display are stunning in their own right.”

Among the star lots of the collection is a stunning diamond pendant, supporting a natural pearl of exceptional size (26 mm x 18 mm) (est. $1-2 million, pictured above). Testament to the splendour and opulence of the French court are also a pair of natural pearl drops (est. $30,000 – 50,000) and a fabulous necklace featuring 331 natural pearls (est. $200,000-300,000).

Made for Louise of France (1819-1864), grand-daughter of Charles X, King of France and mother of Robert I, Duke of Parma, a breath-taking diamond parure composed of 95 diamonds(est. $300,000-500,000) includes five solitaire diamonds.

Treasures from the Habsburgs and the Dukes of Parma

The illustrious jewels to be offered in November also bear witness to the family’s connections with the House of Habsburg, one of the most influential royal dynasties of Europe. Reigning over the Austro-hungarian Empire until 1918, the Habsburgs also occupied the throne of the Holy Roman Empire and produced emperors and kings whose dominions included Germany, England, Spain, Holland and Italy.

A highlight of this group is a diamond tiara of foliate scroll design given by Emperor Franz Joseph (1830-1916), one of Europe’s longest reigning monarchs, to his great-niece, Archduchess Maria Anna of Austria (1882-1940) for her wedding to Elias of Bourbon, Duke of Parma (1880–1959) in 1902. This opulent diadem was created by Köchert, the prestigious Viennese jewellery house founded in 1814 which served the Imperial House of Austria for four generations (est. $80,000-120,000).

Boasting the same prestigious provenance are a magnificent diamond bow brooch, adorned with a 6.89-carat Burmese ruby (est. $200,000-300,000) and a diamond ring set with an impressive fancy orangey-pink diamond of 2.44 carats (est. $120,000-180,000) which were given to Archduchess Maria Anna of Austria by her father to mark the births of her two sons.

A diamond brooch adorned with an impressive 30.70-carat sapphire from Ceylon (est. $150,000 250,000) was a gift from her mother on the occasion of her marriage.

Most of the jewels in the collection were given to Robert I (1848-1907), the last sovereign Duke of Parma and Piacenza, by his mother, Louise of France (1819-1864), grand-daughter of King Charles X of France and great-niece of Marie Antoinette.

Robert I also received exceptional jewels from his paternal grand-mother, Maria-Teresa of Savoy, Duchess of Parma (1803-1879), including a pair of diamond girandole earrings (est. $150,000-250,000). For her wedding to Robert I, Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies (1849–1882) received from her husband’s grand-father, Charles II of Parma a large diamond pendeloque brooch (est. $ 25,000-35,000)